Adventures in China - Xi An, Terracotta Army & Huashan (Part 4 - Final)

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Xi An 西安
After bidding Guangyuan farewell, I arrived at Xi An in the morning the next day. Upon reaching the city, I was greeted by the ancient  city walls that surrounded the city. Xi An is a very unique city due to its many historical monuments and ancient ruins within the city such as the Bell Tower and Drum Tower built in the 1300s during the early Ming Dyansty. It was also the terminus of the Silk Road and once capital of China (then known as Chang An 长安). 

Upon exiting the train station, I was greeted by this magnificent ancient city walls. Gave me the feeling like I was in the Tang Dynasty or a movie set. Taking a walk along the picturesque city walls allows you to appreciate the charm of the city. There are bicycles for rent at the top of the walls. I suggested to rent the bicycles as it will be a very loooooong walk around the city. 
 Strolling along the top of the city walls. 

The Bell Tower in Xi An. 


Xi An has a very large Muslim population, where many come from the Hui Clan. In the evening, I visited the Muslim Quarters,回民街, where it is a collective name for a few streets famous for its Muslim cultural atmosphere. The entrance can be found at the Drum Tower. The best time for visiting this area is in the evening when the food stalls are open serving dinner. If you prefer more walking space, I suggest that you arrive here at around 4:30, where there is a smaller crowd.

The entrance to the Great Mosque in Xi An. Constructed in the Tang Dynasty, it is an interesting building as it combines Chinese architecture with Islamic art. It is open to public and I made a mental note to visit it. However, it was closed when I decided to pay it a visit.

You can find many hawker stalls along the streets in the Muslim Quarter. There you will find food influenced both by the Chinese and Middle Eastern culture. Here in Xi An there are a few 'must try' dishes that are bound to blow you away. After walking along the city walls earlier in the afternoon, I was famished. Hence I decided to have a sumptuous dinner in a restaurant (with air-conditioning, I might add). 
I started my dinner with steamed mutton dumplings 小笼包. The meat was well marinated and the soup inside the dumpling was delicious. The next dish was the 羊肉泡馍, which is actually mutton soup but here they added large amounts of flat bread, broken into small pieces. If you wander along the streets, you can actually see people meticulously tearing pieces of pita or flat bread and putting it into their mutton soup. The last dish I tried was the 刀削面, meaning knife cut noodles. The noodles are relatively short and flat as they were shaved off from a slab of dough. The texture of the noodles were different from those of the hand pulled noodles as it was a little bit more chewy. I find the beef soup broth a tad too salty, but I still managed to drink half the bowl. After leaving the restaurant, I have also tried a few other street food such as meat skewers along the way and they were all marvellous.
All in all, it was probably one of the more fulfilling dinner I had during this trip!


Terracotta Army Museum 兵马俑博物馆
The next day, I visited the one of greatest archaeological sites of the world and also one of the greatest discoveries in the 20th century, the Terracotta Army Museum. You can reach here by taking Tourist Bus 5 from the Xi An Railway Station. When I got there, it was already packed with tourists.
The museum consist of 3 vaults which displayed an array of terracotta soldiers and chariots. Vault 1 is the largest vault and it showcased an impressive army of terracotta soldiers. Each of the soldiers are unique on its own, they have their own gestures, facial expressions, hairstyle and clothing. Vault 2 & 3 are smaller vaults displaying similar terracotta soldiers but the soldiers in Vault 3 are mainly high ranking officers and they also displayed a number of bronze chariots. Both vaults  are currently under restoration and excavation.  


Vault 1 of the Terracotta Museum, almost the size of an hangar. 



The heads of these soldiers were stolen by tomb robbers and thieves. 

Bronze chariots in Vault 3

I was very amazed at the actual size and details of the warriors. Rows after rows of warriors standing with astonishing amount of detail. It goes without saying that visiting this place is a must. You would not have visited Xi An without coming to this place. 

Mount Hua 华山
To end my adventure in China, I decided to conquer Mount Hua, or Huashan in Chinese. One of the five greatest mountains in China, Huashan boast a long history of religious significance and the term 华山论剑 was popularized by Chinese novelist Jin Yong (金庸) where in his novel, Huashan is the place where top martial art pugilists will hold their fights. To get here, I took a high speed train to Huashan Station and then boarded a shuttle bus to the foot of Huashan. 


华山论剑, courtesy of 金庸


Huashan is very different from the previous two mountains that I have climbed. It has five peaks and one can follow the trail and explore all five peaks. The highest peak is the southern peak where it stands at 2154.9m above sea level. The trail is rocky and has near perpendicular cliffs, steep slopes and 90 degrees angled stairs. Huashan was also termed 'most dangerous and terrifying hikes' in a few magazines and news articles.  
I started from the north peak, then to the middle peak, west peak, south peak and finally the east peak. This route is quite exhaustive unlike Mt Emei as you have to ascend and descend from peak to peak so I suggest to bring more water and snacks. 

Huashan north peak
Beautiful scenery of the mountains all around me. 



One of the highlights of this climb are the Yun Ti 云梯 and Tian Ti 天梯, cloud stairs and heaven stairs. These are near vertical flight of stairs with chains at the sides for you to hold onto when you climb them. It can be pretty dangerous especially when it is snowing or raining. 


I finally reached the highest peak which is also the south peak! 


View of the west peak from the south peak. The route to the west peak looks very intimidating. The only thing that segregates you from the steps are the low chain barriers installed on both sides. When walking I had to remind myself not to look sideways. As you can see at the top right hand of the picture. The west peak is the also known as the Sunrise peak, where people will climb up to that cliff to get an incredible view of the sunrise. 



Imagine falling down the steep slope. Dont think there is a way back. No wonder Huashan is infamous for its dangerous hiking paths. 

I completed all five peaks in 5 hours. From the west peak, I returned to the north peak and took the cable car down the mountain and then took the high speed train back to Xi An. Of all the mountains, Huashan offers the most stunning views throughout the climb. It really deserved to be name one of the great 5 peaks of China. After this trip, I am definitely going to climb the other 4 mountains. 

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For my final night in Xi An, I checked myself into a capsule hotel just for the experience. As it was my first time, I was impressed by the friendly staff and comfortable capsule. Believe it or not, the capsule itself was quite spacious. The capsule is also equipped with a television (mine wasn't working though), mirror and desk. They also provide earphones and wifi. There are blinds so that you can have some privacy. 
I was also pleasantly surprised by the cleanliness of the area.... until I stepped into the toilet. The pungent smell is almost unbearable. Besides that, it was a mildly enjoyable stay.  



With that, I have come to the end of my adventure in China. All in all, it has been an rewarding experience. There were many firsts for me during this trip, from taking the sleeper trains to enjoying magnificent views from mountain peaks to zip-lining across two cliffs ( I still cant believe that I just did that), I have totally enjoyed myself to the fullest during this two weeks. My next trip will probably be in China but it's still in the works. Until the next adventure folks. - End-





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